Villa Noci

A silver lining?

Is there somebody out there testing my endurance, or is theft just part of the Italian learning curve?! I’m beginning to think so. This past week has been more than a little difficult. I’ve experienced something here in Italy that I managed to avoid in the world’s supposed hottest spots – I was robbed! And, oh, the hassles you wouldn’t believe, let alone the cost.

And isn’t it always the way – my bag was full to bursting, the thief must still be laughing over my stupidity. The frustrations are not helped by the fact that my bag wasn’t carelessly slung over my shoulder or in full view in the car, but deliberately hidden in the boot of a friend’s car (for safety he said!) It seems that the thieves must have been lurking when we parked and had some means of operating the electronic central locking system.

First mistake, I had been to the bank the day before to pay a load of bills (the drawbacks of a cash society) and had failed to remove either the bulk of the cash or my British credit card. Of course along with the cash, were a myriad of other valuables (and I’m not talking about my precious perfume, lipstick and other usual woman’s clutter but bank cards, codice fiscale, house keys, mobile phone, address book and more). So if any of you out there are wondering why you haven’t heard from me recently, now you know – please get in touch, my numbers remain the same. But worst of all, every one of my car documents (I won’t go into the reason for them being in the bag, but needless to say for safe keeping!) It turns out that the most difficult item to replace is my British driving license. You may not believe it, but having lost the British card version of my license (for reasons known only to those on high, the official British paper version is not accepted here) and I have no way of legally obtaining either an Italian version (for which I require the British card original) or a British replacement (for which I need to be resident in the UK). This saga is still continuing, with an attempt to use a photocopy of a photocopy obtained from the local police after a recent traffic infringement (another story!) – surely their word will be good enough – probably not!

I count myself lucky in many respects – no one was hurt, I didn’t lose my passport or my camera and thank goodness my car keys were in my pocket. During the speedy return to the house I was considering the awful possibility that the thief had paired my house keys and address and headed straight towards another source of income. Thankfully, everything was intact, just leaving the problem of breaking into my own house. Fortunately, a ladder left in full view in next door’s house construction (since put under lock and key) proved to be the answer and the only casualty was a broken ornament in the bathroom and what a lucky escape, the hand mirror on the window ledge survived and spared me those dreaded seven years of bad luck! Every cloud has a silver lining!

Contact Details

It's been pointed out to me that somehow my contact details have become buried, so here they are again. Email address - globetrottinggill@msn.com Telephone numbers - 00 39 080 433 1498 (landline) and mobile 00 39 334 926 8023. Again, the location is Selva di Fasano in the "Heel" of Italy - Puglia - midway between Bari and Brindisi. Look forward to hearing from you.

A Cautionary Tale

We have all heard stories of buying property only to find out that all is not what we expected. We never think we are going to find ourselves in that situation, but it happens!

Having bought my villa from a its previous owner, an English woman, I was quite convinced that everything was in order and that I had done everything expected of me – searches, surveyor’s report, etc – but I didn’t account for the Italian “way”, how can you?!

It was only after the geometra had applied to the local comune for planning permission for a pool that we discovered that I did not, in fact, own my garden (or the large proportion of it). Mmm, perhaps that accounts for the theft of my fruit this summer, they knew it wasn’t really mine! It appears that when the property was transferred to the previous owner, somehow the land got overlooked in the process and was missed again when purchased by me. I still fail to understand the system – what did I pay the lawyer that exorbitant sum for?

I’ve been fortunate because the previous owners (now in Switzerland) agreed to sign the land over to me without any further ado or cost (all a genuine oversight it seems). It did entail yet another visit to the notaio who put an ridiculous figure on a piece of land, useless to me other than as terraced garden, incidentally, increasing my ici quite substantially. The agents, fortunately, didn’t even suggest that I pick up the notaio’s bill – as far as I’m concerned, an admission of their “oversight”.

I’ve been lucky, this mistake/oversight, call it what you will, could have been a very costly and potentially damaging issue for me, but if anything me - it’s given me time to re-evaluate the pool installation. For the time being, I’m “holding fire” – again this seems like a minefield full of potential problems, plus going to the beach this summer has proved to be such an easy option. Trying to obtain quotations, deal with local bureaucracy, etc, etc has resulted in delaying the decision until next year! Am I already becoming Italian in my thinking?

October update

I'm amazed that people actually read this and even more amazed that I've been asked to produce more of the same - can't believe that it's of interest to anyone except long-suffering family!

But, it seems that following my interview in Italia Mag some of my exploits and experiences are of interest to others, so here goes to try and capture on paper just some of the last few months' trials and tribulations.

It is only a relatively short time that I've been in Puglia, and I have to keep reminding myself of that fact, but I do seem to have covered quite a bit in five months - good and bad - and now winter is nearing, bringing, no doubt, another set of experiences.

In a culture so different from my own there are inevitably going to be many funny stories through misunderstandings, lack of local knowledge, etc and my experiences are no exception.

One would think that a traffic sign pointing in a certain direction in town would mean that this is for all traffic – not so, as I discovered to my cost and chagrin in Martina Franca. Taking the easy way out and trying to sightsee by car in the Centro Storico, and after many gruelling hours, both for myself and my long suffering mother, pushing a wheelchair over the cobbles, I opted for the car. However, I failed to account for the fact that my two months old Punto is just that bit wider than the Smart Car (now I know why it’s so called!) and motorcycles. I suppose I should have given up at the first ear-shattering scrape, or even before when I noticed the many streaks of paint on both walls, but lack of determination never got me anywhere, so scraping onwards I entered a small courtyard …. Hmm. No, I am assured by some local fellows there is no way out, so have to return via the same route … Oh, no! After much unconstructive male assistance in backing to and forth, I started the scrape back out, but this time, with further assistance on the wheel (through the window) from another local expert, the car found its natural sticking point between the two walls and refused to budge either forwards or backwards … help! Eventually, a further local (and by now we were quite the spectacle of the day) volunteered that there was a way out around the back which he thought we could negotiate – if only I could extricate us with doors intact. To cut a long and painful story short, we eventually did manage to leave the Centro Storico (I walked the route first!) My poor car was a sight to behold and all I can say is that a friend recommended a very good carrozzaria and the four damaged panels were put to rights once more – anyone need a carozzaria? Moral of the story – don’t believe you can get down every alley, unless you are the white rabbit!

Another funny story (well for me) occurred during the summer in my efforts to become integrated and onside with the local community in Selva. I have been befriended by a lovely lady called Anna who seems to feel that it’s her duty to make me known to everyone. With my limited knowledge of Italian, I was collected or told to be somewhere without the slightest understanding of what was expected of me or where I was going. I’ve been to music evenings, poetry readings, suppers and dancing in the garden, cooking competitions and the inevitable evening long family meals – I couldn’t ask for a better first summer here. But when Anna asked me if the local association could come to my house following a walk in the area, I, of course, said yes – but then discovered what it entailed – I had to provide tea for however many turned up (usually about 25, but in my case 40 poured into my garden to see what that mad inglese could do!). Providing food for Italians is a nerve wracking experience at the best of times – what does one provide for tea?! I settled for quiches, home made shortbread, coconut tarts, stuffed figs (abundant in the garden) and to use up some square white bread in the freezer made some toasted cheese and onion sandwiches, thinking "dare I serve such ordinary fare?". I also thought if I gave them a white wine punch, maybe they would leave with that happy feeling and not be too critical of my efforts!! Well, so much for haute cuisine!! My very short shortbread (even if I say it myself) and coconut tarts were spurned in favour of the toasted sandwiches which were heaped with much undue praise! They had me explaining time and again exactly how they were made, even to the point of fetching the sandwich maker. Jamie Oliver eat your heart out – toasted sandwiches are the answer! I must say, not being a real foodie, the obsession with food becomes a bit trying from time to time, especially when urged by neighbours to give them a daily run down of my diet. At times I have been known to embroider somewhat!

I can thoroughly recommend this area as the place to learn the language, if that is your wish. I’ve now been here nearly six months and from a halting few words, can now make myself understood in most situations and hold a reasonable conversation – still lots of mistakes of course, but because the locals rarely speak English they are very forgiving and helpful. Again, the lack of language has led to many misunderstandings and frustrations on my part and are maybe a reason for the somewhat distant behaviour of my immediate neighbour. I asked him for help to recommend a carrozzaria, but maybe telling him that being a woman on my own I was anxious not to be “peeled” – well that was the dictionary translation of “ripped off” – didn’t give quite the right impression!

I've enjoyed the summer, especially having family and friends to stay which has given me the excuse to delay the ongoing work on house and garden. I was reminded today, whilst making the most enormous bonfire of prunings of hedges and trees, of my little granddaughter's response to the question in August "what did you like the most during your stay with grandma?" Her answer, "oh the bonfire"! So much for the daily visit to the beaches, the icecreams, the visits to interesting places!

So now, approaching autumn with the still beautiful weather but temperatures which make work possible, it's back to the grind, painting (well more accurately disturbing the rust and trying find original metalwork), trying to clear more garden and keep the rest under control - all in a day's work!

I'm looking forward to next year and hopefully to seeing some of you here in Selva, which has proved this summer to be a wonderful centre for all ages and interests.

Beautiful local bays

Typical picturesque sandy cove, just a few minutes north of the fishing village of Sevelletri and one of many similar.

Swimming in May, another beautiful bay just down the road.

Gill with trusty steed!

Well, here I am with my trusty steed and ready to explore the area, or at least get the legs working. You're welcome to use the bike and if you really want some exercise just try that hill from Fasano.

Selva di Fasano in springtime

Selva di Fasano is one of the most prestigious and sought after areas in Puglia, a venue of repute which boasts a summer full of events and local culture. The air is pure and clear and because of its height it remains green, tree-lined and beautiful in the height of summer when the coastal plain is parched and brown. The village of Selva offers many facilities including bars, shops, a number of excellent and diverse restaurants, a post office, community centre and a tennis club where you will be welcome to play for a small fee, all within a few minutes walk from the Villa Noci.

Selva's central position makes it an ideal centre from which to explore the surrounding area - it's only 20 mins away from Alberobello (the famous and intriguing World Heritage trulli village), the amazing caves of Castellana Grotte, Locorotondo and its delicious white wines (visit the local cantina to indulge in a little wine tasting) and if it's the sea you want, it's less than 20 mins drive to the picturesque little fishing port of Sevelletri (and the icecream there is to die for!) Just minutes from Sevelletri itself there are numerous picture postcard sandy bays which are ideal for little ones as well as offering good swimming for adults. Martina Franca is another town which is renowned for its full calendar of events during the summer months, as well as Ostuni - the Citta Bianca on the hill, both only 30 minutes distance.

An exciting day out for both big and small kids at the zoo safari at Fasano is well worth keeping in mind, along with the opportunities to play golf on an international and beautiful coastal course, again within 20 mins drive.

And if all that's not enough, explore the beautiful sandy bays and inlets along the Adriatic coastline or cross to the Ionian sea for a different perspective - all within easy reach.

Both Bari and Brindisi offer good shopping and larger town facilities, as well as both being interesting ports with beautiful architecture and the university town of Lecce is well worth a visit to explore the old town and see the Roman amphitheatre in its midst.

This is an unspoilt area of natural beauty with an abundance of cultural activities and sights, wonderful cuisine, warm hospitality and so much more. Come and experience some real Italy before it becomes "discovered"!

Bottom of the garden

Wild flowers at the bottom of my garden - a place to enjoy the natural beauty and tranquility of one of the most beautiful areas of Puglia. Springtime is amazing and a wonderful time to enjoy Puglia - an artist's paradise.

Figs

Ripening nicely for pick your own! And when they're finished, there are more fruit trees - cherries, pears, apples, grapes, apricots.

A beautiful view

A place to sit and drink in the surroundings - trulli, vineyards, hills and trees. Or a good spot to set up your easle and capture the beautiful views to take home with you.